We drove the 17km from Peperboom into Craddock and got fuel. Then 25km out to Mountain Zebra Park. Its a 10km drive from the gate into the rest camp. The campsite is compact, but was OK for us, we put ourselves at the high end. We went for 2.5km up above the campsite. The campsite over three days has never more than half full. The whole facility is in a valley nicely located. We set up camp and headed south along the Kranskop loop. Liz drove, her first time, and along a narrow and sometimes steep road. We saw a few animals, but it was cold and raining. At the bottom of the loop had been a lion sighting, but we didn’t see anything. Later we heard that there were only 3 lions in the park, making the chances of a sighting a bit slim. The next day we tried again – leaving soon after dawn. The weather was better, some overcast, but no rain. At the high point of the Kranskop loop Liz spotted something maybe chasing some jackals. It turned out to be a Cheetah. The Cheetah idled along pretty well ignoring us, until it got off the road and it walked along side us about 5 metres away. It then gradually disappeared. We saw more Zebra and lots of Sprinkbok and Kudu later in the day. We met a couple from George a town on the south coast, who gave us some ideas of places to visit on the way to Cape Town. On day 3 we did another game drive driving out of the camp, but we didn’t see a lot of animals, more Zebra and Springbok.
We left Mountain Zebra park and headed to Craddock where we got more supplies from Superspa, and had lunch at Spur. Then it was around a 200km drive down to Addo Elephant Park where we arrived around 4:30pm.
A Dassie sunning itself on the rocks above the campsiteLooking down to the campsite from up the hill on our walkLiz’s first driveBeware of LionsDriving along a cloudy roadSpingbokSpringbokMountain ZebraCheetahKuduSouthern Weaver bird building a nestAnother weaver bird nest buildingCape BuffaloCape Ground squirrel on alert
We headed into Queenstown and the PicknPay supermarket. A few extra supplies, although the supermarket didn’t have a lot of stock, it was under renovation. Then off to Lawrence de Lange Reserve where for about $A4.50 we got entry to a great reserve. We drove around for a couple of hours and saw Giraffe, and Zebra and lots of antelope and finally the resident Rhino family, two Rhino parents and a (not very small) baby Rhino.
Then it was a 170km drive to Peperboom, which was a nice campsite north of Craddock.
The Rhino family, as least two of themBaby RhinoA “tower” of Giraffesa plains ZebraGame driving
It was a great sunny morning of Caritas Werfbederf. We were going to try for 357km to Suntsani Campsite outside Queenstown in Eastern Cape.
The road got better after a few kilometres with less potholes. At Rouxville we joined the N6 a much better road. At Aliwal North we stopped at Wimpy’s restaurant for lunch. Then we hit the road until we got to Queenstown at around 4pm. We spoke to a couple of South Africans and they suggested we visit Lawrence de Lange Reserve outside Queenstown.
So that night we decided we needed to plan the next few days. We decided we would go to Moutain Zebra Park, and then Addo Elephant Park. Two nights camping at each, total (because they charge more for foreigners) 5,263 Rand (About $A480). We couldn’t book in the first night they were full, so we planned to go to a place called Peperboom nearby.
We arrived and Glen Reenen Rest camp, and got a bit surprised by the cost. Its a Sanpark, so they charge more for foreigners. It was 2,048 Rand for two nights (about$A185). It makes you reluctant to stay in SanParks because they are so expensive.
It was very cold the next day 6C-8C with a biting wind and low cloud. We walked up to Echo Chasm a 2km walk. We are at close to 2,000m altitude, so its surprising how hard a walk up hill is. We walked down to the nearby hotel in the afternoon, which was run down and didn’t look like it had any guests.
Next morning we set off in the cold. First to Clarens 22km away where we went to the local Spar supermarket and got some supplies, and encountered a rare white car guard. We were aiming for a campground 205km away, we thought if we were going well we might make a more distant campsite. We turned onto the R26 and found ourselves on a heavily potholed road. It was slow going dodging the potholes and by the time we got to Caritas Werfbederf at 2pm in the afternoon we decided that the slow going would prevent us getting to our next target. So we turned into the farm that was Caritas Werfbederf and camped on a nice lawn with use of the bathroom in one of the farmhouses. The are had ducks and peacocks and ponys and more wandering through. Finally after several cold days it was sunny and warm.
Echo ChasmEcho ChasmEcho ChasmThe campground at Golden Gate Park, and the low cloudRather than fixing the Potholes put up a pothole warning signPeacocks on the roofPony wandering pastCamped on the lawns at Caritas Werfbederf
It rained a lot overnight at Royal Natal. We woke at 5:30am and started packing up, only to find water inside at the back of the camper. Its probably bad drainage on the roof. We soaked up the water, packed lots of stuff in plastic bags and headed out on a very cold morning. We had 123km to drive as we headed for Sentinel Peak where the track started to Tugela Falls. As we drove it got more and more cloudy, and we started to think it might not be worth doing. We looked at the weather forecast and there seemed a slight chance that the cloud might lift. We eventually got to the enormous town of Phuthaditjhaba that spread over about 25km. It was slow going through town. Then it was uphill. We passed through the gate of the Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge where we paid 180 Rand to get to Sentinel Peak car park. The a few more kms of brick paved road, until we hit a rough 4wd track. It was a rocky slow 3.5km up the track in thick cloud. We made it to Sentinel Peak car park, which was in very thick cloud. Liz decided that we should walk some distance along the trail towards Tugela Falls. We met some people along the way (fit young people), but it was just thick cloud. We got to a lookout point that would have been a fantastic view, if it wasn’t just cloud.
Driving up to Sentinel Peak
We did think of staying and camping in the car park overnight, but it was so cloudy and cold we decided we would head off to Glen Reenen Rest Camp in Golden Gate Highland National Park. So back we headed down the 4WD track and back through Phuthaditjhaba, arriving at Glen Reenen at 5:30pm.
On the track up to Tugela
The lookout that you can see Tugela Falls if it wasn’t cloudySentinel Car ParkParked at Sentinel Peak Car ParkThe track to Tugela Falls
We had a slow packup at Mt Everest. We got going at 9:45am and headed towards Harrismith. We got stopped by Police on the N3 outside Harrismith, but no problems, and he sent us on our way. First stop was Checkers supermarket for supplies. We managed to get everything we wanted for the next few days camping. We then went back down the N3 to the Engen and filled up with diesel (about$A3 a litre). Then we drove around for 5 minutes looking for a park so we could get lunch at Rocky Mountain Spur.
After lunch on our way to Royal Natal, about 75km. We ended up stopped at roadworks where we were told the road was closed . We turned back to a detour about 5km back, and took a narrow road that eventually rejoined the main road. We went through the gate of Royal Natal where they told us we should be able to get a campsite. Then the visitor centre were we paid 1,140 rand (about $A100) for three nights of unpowered camping in Mahai campsite. When we got to Mahai it was packed, It was Heritage Day long weekend, plus the start of the school holidays. Liz found us a good spot high up at the end of the campsite. It was a ledge, and with a bit of maneuvering we got ourselves set up with good views of the Drakensburgs.
We went for a walk up the Mahai river to the Cascades. Lots of people and kids splashing around in the river.
Camped at Mahai campgroundCamped with views of the DrakensburgsBridge over the Mahai on the way to the Cascades
The next day we decided to do the walk to Tiger Falls, which was a 250m climb up above the campsite. It was well marked, and when we got to the falls we met a couple from Perth WA including their three kids. It was a well made path heading down but tough on the knees.
Walking up towards Tiger FallsTiger FallsMahai campground from the walk to Tiger Falls
The next day was also pretty nice weather wise. Most of the campers left on Sunday, heading back to Joberg or Durban. We decided to walk up to Sunday Falls, about 2.5km. It was a steady walk up, not as steep as the walk to Tiger Falls. We crossed a creek along the way. When we got to Sunday Falls, we took off our shoes and waded across to the other side and then took a 200m walk down to the base of the falls. We decided Sunday Falls was far superior to Tiger Falls, with a lot more water flowing over it.
Approaching the top of Sunday FallsSunday Falls (on Sunday…)Wading back over the top of Sunday Fallson the walk back from Sunday Falls a Giant Wild Anemone
A troop of Baboons visited, here is one sitting close waiting for us to make a mistakeBaboons and babies around camp
I got going at 5:50am because I was picking up Liz from the airport who was meant to arrive at 6:15am. However the Singapore airline flights had been arriving early some as early as 5:30am. I was on the way to the airport when Liz rang to tell be she was waiting at the airport. I got into the P1 parking area (open air so I can fit Clancy in), and Liz and I found each other. So we loaded up and headed south to join the N3 towards Durban. It was a good drive. We got to Harrismith and went shopping at Checkers for supplies and then headed for Mt Everest Game Farm.
We got through two security gates to get in. We camped up the hill in the camping area with no power, but an ablution block. There are various animals wandering around Mt Everest. We walked around and saw various antelopes, zebra, wildebeest, Ostriches with great views of the mountains behind. We spent two nights at Mt Everest.
Mt Everest is a climbing destination. There were meant to be a large group of climbers arriving when we stayed, however they cancelled because of expected rain. We did see some climbers up the mountain.
Camped at Mt Everest Game FarmZebra at Mt Everest Game FarmA male and female OstrichWildebeest at Mt EverestEagle Mountain
The next ten days were spent fixing things. I needed to replace the 7 year old AGM batteries with new LiFePo batteries. As well I replaced the tail lights with new ones. Topped up diff oils, greased the tail-shaft. I also spent a couple of days building a new bike rack at the rear to hold two bikes.
Taking out the old corroded tail-lights after 7 years
Installing a replacement door lock
Building a new bike rackTwo new tail-lights plus a relocated diesel heater tank
I arrived in South Africa 9pm September 7th 2026. At the campground Clancy is stored at David had started up the camper and shifted near the kitchen. After a chat with Marion and David, I started removing all the stuff jammed in the camper so I could make room to sleep. The inside was musty and dusty, but sleep I did. I decided I needed two days to get everything ready for a run to the Botswana border to get a new TIP (Temporary Import Permit). My existing TIP had been extended by six months but was still expiring on the 19th September, so I had to drive to Botswana cross the border, then come back into South Africa and get a new TIP.
After two days I set off on September 10th towards Botswana and made it after 260km to Hunters Moon a campsite east of Zeerust. Hunters Moon was a nice campsite. It had big lawns and a river. The couple running it had built it up over recent years. It was cheap at 100Rand a night (about $A9).
camped at Hunters Moon east of Zeerust
The next day I headed west towards Zeerust. I had a leaking alternator oil return hose. I thought I had a spare but two searches had failed to find it (about two weeks later I found it stored in an electrical spares box!) . So I went to the Toyota dealer in Zeerust to see if they had a replacement. No luck they showed it out of production. They sent be to a spares place in a side street. They sold me hose, but told me that they couldn’t sell be connectors, they sent me to a place that did hydraulic hose replacements for earthmoving machinery. When I visited them a very helpful guy told be he could make the hose. So I removed the hose from the alternator and gave it to him. I watched him make the replacement hose. With a bit more cutting it fitted, and I had solved the oil leak. He charged me $A5 while the original Toyota part costs $A55.
Removing the alternator return hose in the yard to use it to make a replacement in Zeerust
I then headed north to a little border post north of the N4, at Swartkopfontein. This border crossing did not go well. The cop decided I did not have the right paperwork and made me follow him 40km north to the Tlokweng border port. There was a lot of back and forth and eventually I got released to Botswana with a fine. Then it was 9pm at night. I got through a very busy Botswana border post and then made another mistake. I exited the Botswana border post and headed along a road. It was confusing there were trucks queued along what I thought was a service road, and I was on the main road. I was very wrong, I was driving on the wrong side of the road, and along came a police car to confirm that. I followed him back to the Police Station in the border crossing to be given a 1,000 pula fine (about $A105). Eventually I got on the road again to arrive at Gaberone backpackers at 10:30pm at night.
The next morning I headed for the South African border wondering after all the problems yesterday if I would be able to get a new TIP. When I got to the border it was a long search to find anyone in customs. However after a bit of a delay I got my new TIP and was on my way. I headed again for Hunters Moon, and got there late afternoon. The next day was an uneventful drive back to the campsite in Benoni in Johannesburg.
I didn’t get any internet overnight in the wild camp. The local cell towers were 2G. I had this happen before in Zambia, and Angola finding 2G. Australia shutdown our 2G ten years ago, and even 3G last year. Anyway 2G is pretty useless for data.
I headed down the highway to Serowe. After getting slightly lost in town blindly following the GPS, I got to the Spar supermarket. Although there was a supermarket in Nata, this Spar supermarket was the first supermarket in a month that was close in its choices of goods to a supermarket in South Africa. I got some decent bananas, some pink lady apples, some tinned pineapple.
I continue on towards Palapye. I wander around a couple of shopping centres. Palapye is so big now, not the dusty town I visited for the first time ten years ago. I decide I am going to head to Segaigai which is a reserve and campground maybe 5km out of town. There is a campground in town, but the couple of times I have visited it, it has gradually gone downhill. Its good to stay in Palapye as its about 120km run to Martins Drift border crossing, and then its about 230km to Weesgerus caravan park which is not expensive (unlike anything in Bela Bela) and is a reasonable under 200km run to Benoni. So I whatsapp Segaigai, but I don’t get an immediate answer. So I decide I will head out there anyway. However on the way I get a message saying its OK for me to camp, and I tell them I will be there in 15 minutes, but it takes me much longer because I get lost. I get caught blindly following the GPS again getting stuck on roads that are not passable. After about 40 minutes of driving around I finally get there. Its a nice campsite, and after a little while James who is a New Zealander and runs the place introduces himself. He has been there about five years.
Later in the evening James takes me to the enclosure to feed the porcupines. I had never seen porcupines (they are nocturnal so that’s possibly one reason). They have six in an enclosure. We spent an hour feeding them, cabbage, apples. They are so tame that you can hand feed them apples. They are sort of scary looking, but quite friendly.
Next morning I was up at 5am, and got on the road by 6:30am. Crossing Martins Drift can be a bit crazy, its hard to predict what might happen. When I got close to Martins Drift, I drove past the 3km long queue of trucks waiting to get across the border. Lots of Zambia trucks driving copper products to Durban. In the Botswana side of Martins Drift there were about 3 cars and loads and loads of trucks. In the South Africa side it was the usual truck chaos. You squeeze your way through to a park. The passport side of crossing into South Africa is simple. The vehicle bit is trickier. I needed a TIP (Temporary Import Permit). I got onto a customs guy who was reluctant. However he came out to look at the vehicle, mostly to see that the registration number was right. Then he plugged away for about 30 minutes and eventually I got my TIP. Then it’s squeeze into the truck queue for the police check on the way out. The police were not interested in me this time (they have other times), and I was out into South Africa. Of course on the South Africa side there are 4km of queued trucks, plus food stalls and all sorts of other chaos. 8km down the road there is another police stop. I didn’t get stopped, but the trucks in front of me did. What is the point after you have gone through Martins Drift and all the checking, including a police check, do you need another police check just down the road?
230km later, and about 4pm I rolled into Weesgerus. Weesgerus is a strange caravan park that is a sort of 1970’s caravan park in Australia, full of 1970’s caravans and Afrikaners. It has a couple of swimming pools filled by hot springs. I probably have been there four times and I have never swum in the pools.
Next morning it was the final 180km run to Joberg. You pay tolls about 3 times on the N1 (about $A12 all together). It’s is full of cops pulling people over (didn’t happen to me this trip, but has before). The N1 gets a bit hairy and busy close to Joberg, at least for a very slow 1987 Landcruiser, but eventually I am on the R21 and exiting at Benoni.
PorcupinesPorcupines eating applesTrip ends, back in Benoni packing up and fixing things
