wildlife – Page 2 – Clancy Abroad

Khankhwe Pan to Bape camp CKGR

Well I am deep in the Kalahari now. It is 72km from Khankhwe to Bape. I have not seen another vehicle now for two days, however I have gone through two villages much to my surprise.

I left Khankhwe about 9:30am. I am going to have to leave much earlier tomorrow morning. I have 123km to drive tomorrow, and the sand is much easier to drive on in the cool of the morning. The whole route is fairly sandy. I stopped part way and lowered my front tyre pressure even lower.

The first thing I encountered was a burnt out and rusting 4WD. I wonder what happened there.

17km out of Khankhwe suddenly there was a young girl running to me from the scrub. I stopped to talk to her, and within a couple of minutes her Mum and several siblings had turned up. There was a village about 1km away, and they were just out looking for animals. The girl really wanted my Bluetooth speaker that was sitting on the dash. She knew the brand name as well. I did point out she needed a phone to provide the music for the speaker, let alone a solar panel to charge it, none of which she had. She just wanted to dance to music, teenagers the same everywhere, even in the middle of nowhere. This village Kukumane had 50 people in it. No cell phones, internet or anything like that. No vehicles, they got their supplies by donkey cart that I guess would have been a two day drive away. They were a friendly lot, I took their picture and continued up to the village. I talked to a guy in the village. I didn’t totally understand but I think these were San people who didn’t want to relocate. They were living the nomadic herder lifestyle of their ancestors.

It was hot and slow driving in the sand. A lot of the time I was only doing 15kmh, if I was lucky in a stretch I got up to 25kmh.

The road started to deviate from the track4Africa map, and I found myself in another village. Within a minute or so I had a dozen people outside my window. They were friendly, told me how to rejoin the road, and I was on my way.

Another 20km or so and I arrived and Bape campsite. This campsite is just a clearing, no drop toilet or anything. It is wilderness.

A burnt out area of the CKGR that the rangers at Khutse warned me about.

The trip so far through the Kalahari in red

Moreswe Pan to Khankhwe Pan

Another cool morning, about 12C, but by the middle of the day it’s 32C. Real Desert weather. I saw some ostriches on the pan but not much else. I wonder if the diesel powered pump for the waterhole is too erratic for the animals to trust it.

I packed up and got going by 9:30am. It was a 60km drive to Khankhwe, at about 25kmh. I stopped at the Moreswe waterhole, but there was nothing there, not even birds. I headed north passing Elephant droppings on the track quite often, but didn’t see any elephants. I saw a few antelopes along the way, and stopped in a Molose waterhole to see a group of antelope and a sole Cape Buffalo. I saw some other campers at Molose, and stopped to talk to a ranger who was headed south. About 1pm I arrived at Khankhwe Pan. This is the last stop before crossing the CKGR. It is 72km to Bape campsite. Later in the afternoon I jacked up the rear wheel so I could rotate the tailshaft, and I greased the tailshaft.

Khutse 01 to Khutse 03 to Moreswe Pan

My time at Khutse 01 was ending, but I was worried that I didn’t have enough diesel to cross the CKGR. I really didn’t plan for crossing the CKGR. I thought it might be possible, then I gave up the idea. However when I asked the rangers at the Khutse gate they thought it was possible. So I sent a WhatsApp message to the Bigfoot tours guy at the gate about whether I could get some dieel as the nearby village of Kaudwane. He thought I could a couple of days earlier, but when I got to the gate he wasn’t there. The ranger rang him, but he didn’t think he could get the diesel until Sunday, and by then I was meant to be way south of Khutse GR in Moreswe Pan. Reluctantly I decided I would have to drive the 120km back to Letlhagkeng to the service station to get more diesel.

I drove down, passing a couple of ostriches with chicks walking along side the road. I also passed a couple of donkey carts, there are often several on this road. I tried to get some cash out of two ATMs in town but one was broken, and the other one was not giving out cash. I needed cash because the service station could not take my credit card. So I dug out all my cash, about $A180 in Pula, and went to buy as much diesel as I could with my cash. While I was in town, I saw five South African vehicles who were obviously heading to Khutse. They were the first white people I had seen in about ten days.

I headed back north, and stopped at the Khutse gate to refill with water. It was getting late and I knew I would not get to Moreswe that evening. So I headed to where I previously camped Khutse 01 but could it was overtaken by the South African group of 5. I found an empty Khutse campsite Khutse 03 and camped for the night.

Next morning I got away early. I headed eventually west along the cut-line seeing some antelope and ostriches along the way. Then I headed south passing a couple of vehicles camped at Molose pan. After lowering my tyre pressure about 11am I arrived at Moreswe Pan.

It was fairly hot. The temperature at one stage was 37C inside the camper, probably 34C outside. I am camped above the pan, and can look down at the waterhole. Not a lot of animals though, not compared to Khutse pan. Two nights here, then I head north to start crossing the CKGR.

Not a great picture but two ostriches and their chicks

Driving into the setting sun towards Khutse campsites

Startrails at Khutse campsite

Awning out since its going to be another warm day

Drakensberg

We arrived at Injusuthi camp Monday afternoon, finding we were the only campers there. It is such a stunning location. The camp is at 1500m, while around the camp towers the Drakensberg mountains from 2000m to 3500m.

The campsite is plagued by Baboons, we have to be careful keeping everything closed up.

The next day on Tuesday, in great weather, about 28C and sunny, we spent the afternoon walking to Grindstone cave. It was only about 3.5km, but 350m of altitude gain. We were already at 1500m, so we found it hard, and gave up and turned back 2/3 of the way in.

On Wednesday we headed for Battle cave, about 6km away, and again 350m of altitude gain. The weather was good, sunny and warm. We headed along a river valley following the river on a track cut into the hillside above. We crossed the river, continued on the other side and then crossed at a confluence of two rivers. The rivers flow well, fed by creeks and waterfalls high up the hills. Eventually we got to Battle cave, and unlocked the gate with the key we got from reception. Some of the San paintings under the rock overhang were very detailed, with fine lines for things like spears.

We headed back to camp. We were trying to get back before a cool change came through the area.

Umlalazi Wildlife Park to St Lucia

Inkwazi campsite was a good place to be based for a few days. We did a few walks, along the beach, through the forest behind the dunes, and along the river. It was warm most days around 30C (until our last morning). It was always humid walking through the forest. We had a couple of Zebras wander in and out of camp over a few days. I rode into town a couple of times to the Spar supermarket to get supplies.

On the last evening a cool change came through, and it rained overnight. The next morning we drove the 120km north to St Lucia.

Walking through the forest on the dunes at Umlalazi Wildlife Park

The beach at Umlalazi Wildlife Park, the rollers coming in from the Indian Ocean

There are many many logs washed up on the beach

Johannesburg to Spioenkop Dam to Kloof

We flew back to Joberg from Italy arriving on the morning of August 8th. First job was to drive to Blue Hole where I had left the awning and seats for some sewing work. Blue Hole put on a new awning, with thicker reflective material, new awning bag, and made two new bags for the folding chairs, plus a couple of seat covers. They did a great job, and it was cheap at $A280.

Then it was of to Harvest Place shopping centre for supplies for the next few weeks.

The next day we went to lunch with Marion and David the couple that run the storage place Airport en Route. We went to the Shed and Silo about a kilometer away. It was packed out, we had to wait about 30 minutes for a table, but it was a nice lunch.

Next day we headed out at around 9am headed towards Durban in KZN. Traffic was light as it was a long weekend. It was a holiday on Friday for Woman’s Day in South Africa. 337km out at around 5pm we arrived at a campsite at Spioenkop Dam nature reserve. A few other campers at the reserve. We had power and reasonable ablutions.

Next day it was back on the road and back to the N3. We had lots of the traffic on the N3, it was the last day of the holiday weekend. A long stretch of roadworks that were tricky to navigate. After a bit over 200km we arrived in Kloof where we are staying for 6 days in an AirBnB.

Chitove camp to Chivillia Camp to Rossi Pools, Gonarezhou National Park

Chitove camp was even better than Fishans camp. We were right next to the water. When we arrived, a couple of elephants left. We had crocodiles resting on the opposite bank. Baboons, Zebras, Elephants and more came down to the water, somewhere along the bank. There was pretty well something going on all day. After 3 nights at Chitove we headed about 60km to Chivillia. Firstly we needed to cross the Runde at a causeway, which we did without it being much more than 30cm deep. We then stopped on the opposite bank to watch a couple of hundred Cape Buffalo head into the water to drink. We then headed to Chilojo cliffs picnic area. There we watched an Elephant wander across the Runde, eventually coming back to comprehensively scratch itself on a tree near us.

We continued on to Chivillia Camp which was a rocky downhill track. We were a bit disappointed with Chivillia, it was away from the water, and there were not a lot of animals. However the first night during dusk, Karen spotted a lion sitting about 100m away. It roared a few times then wandered off. We were pretty careful around camp the next two nights.

After 3 nights at Chivillia Camp we headed for the long drive south to Rossi Pools camp. Firstly we needed to detour to Chipinda Pools camps to get some extra water. Then it was the well built but steep winding descent to the Nkwangulatio causeway. The causeway was built in 2019, and was well done. We crossed it and continued south. We passed a couple of heavily armed rangers making patrols, then followed the electrified park fenceline for tens of kilometres. At 4:30pm and after a long day we arrived at Rossi Pools camp.

Cape Buffalo opposite our campsite at Chitove

Another huge Baboab protected from Elephants with rocks

Occasionally we have some home made bread

Driving down the park fence line, don’t touch the electric fence!

Great Zimbabwe Hotel to Save River Conservancy

The next morning it was cold, but at last not raining. We got packed and drove the 30km into Masvingo, for more supplies, fuel, and water. We found a Pick n pay supermarket, which would also take a credit card.

I went over the road to another supermarket to get water. They wouldn’t take a credit card, so I had to pay with USD. So the bill is USD$3.20. So they have no change less than a $1USD note. So what would I like. So I grab a couple of bottles of water out of the fridge. That leaves 22c changed owed, what do I want to do with that? I don’t care, keep the 22c. However the checkout attendant says, can I buy myself a chocolate bar for 20c. I say fine. We then go out both of us to be checked by the guards for my bottles of water, and her chocolate bar.

We try a servo for fuel with a credit card, no luck, but they suggest the Puma out of town. We go to the six month old Puma with attached KFC about a km out of town and buy fuel with a credit card. We are trying to conserve our supply of USD.

We drive east around 140km, decreasing in altitude and with increasing warmth. A couple of police road blocks, but they wave us through. We then turn onto the Save river conservancy, which is so big, that its a 60km drive from the front gate to the camping spot we have booked.

We drive past (and nearly collide with) Elephants. We also see Zebra, Giraffe, Kudu and other antelopes. After a river crossing we arrive at the Humani compound. We don’t know how to get to the campsite, eventually someone guides us out the 3km to the campsite next to the Turwi river.

We saw Elephants down river from us the first night. Occasionally we hear lions. The second day we spent the afternoon game driving down to the Save River, but didn’t see a lot. When we got back to camp, there was an elephant next to our campsite.

The solar panels set up on the bank, because the campsite is under trees

Hillside Dams Bulawayo Zimbabwe to Farmhouse Matopos

I struggled getting power at Hillside Dams the next morning. I got power until 10am then load-shedding started. With all the solar panels up I managed to charge up the batteries by mid afternoon. I then headed to Karen’s lodge that she was staying at. It was very nice, they also had their generators running as well because they had lost power too.

We went out to dinner with Karen’s colleagues. It being Zimbabwe, and a few South Africans thrown in as well, there was a lot of meat for dinner. Everyone got a good feed though and there was meat left over which people could take home. We stayed in Karen’s room overnight, a big change from the camping I had done for the last 3 weeks.

We headed out the next morning for the Farmhouse camping site about 50km south of Bulawayo, which is just north of the Matapos National Park. We went through two police road blocks, but we were not stopped. Karen thinks they are under orders not to hassle tourists. Farmhouse is very well run. We had hot showers from a donkey boiler, and we had great views. They have Giraffe and Wildebeest on the property, so we walked down to the feeding of the Giraffes which happens every day at 4pm.

Karen by now had got pretty sick from something she caught from being in all those meeting rooms, so Saturday she spent a lot of time asleep. I was fine but I was going to get sick eventually. I went on a cave guided walk, and say a couple of caves with 2,000 year old cave paintings.

On Sunday we drove into Matapos National Park. We headed west on looked at the rock formation called mother and child which is actually pictured on the mysterious ZIG currency. ZIG is the official currency of Zimbabwe, but almost no-one has seen it, everyone works on USD. There are so many balance rocks both in and around Matopos. We headed further west to a dam looking for animals (and maybe white rhino), but we saw evidence of Elephants, but only saw Hippos and klipspringers.

We then headed east to try to get to Nswatugi Cave. The first track got rougher and rougher, until I thought it was too rough for our heavily loaded camper. So we spent about an hour carefully reversing back down the track including cutting scrub out of the way. We ripped off one of the rear mudflaps. This time it was the old one that’s been on for years, rather than the new one. We then headed back and approached the cave from a different direction. We were more successful this time, and made it to the cave late afternoon. The cave had been excavated about 5m down, finding evidence of people living in it 9,000 years ago.

Some of the paintings in the rock shelters

200 year old grain stores made of termite mound mud

KAA cut line to KAA camp

After leaving our camp on the KAA cutline, we continued North-west. After 9km we stopped to talk to three people who were surveying lions. A South African, and two Botswanan trackers. They were looking for lions so they could work out the distribution. The Botswanan trackers told us how they tracked the lions, and they showed no fear of tracking the lions quite close.

We got to the KAA gate of the Kalahari Transfrontier Park around 1pm. The gate was surrounded by fences, all the gates closed, to keep lions out. We camped at campsite number 1, which had a toilet and a (broken) shower, and a basin with bore water. We were warned that there were lions around.

We setup overlooking the pan, there were no other campers around. We went to bed that night keeping a lookout for lions, but leaving a fair bit of stuff outside. During the night we heard lions several times. In the morning karen told me there were noises outside, so I got up and opened the camper door, to find three lions. Two of the lions were about 1.5m away taking turns to try to pull apart the folded up shower tent with their teeth and claws.

The three lions left. We didn’t see or hear any lions until four nights later, our last night at KAA campsite. We were awoken around 4:30am by two lions passing a couple of metres from the camper. We woke up again at 5:30am and drove to the nearby waterhole, but were stopped about 150m from our campsite by two male lions sitting either side of the road waiting in the dark. At dawn we followed the two lions to the waterhole, and watched them drink. Then we followed them in the camper up the road where they met up with the rest of the clan – in total 7 lions. Two males, three females and two cubs.