We got going early because we had a long run into Cape Town or more specifically Stellenbosch out of Cape Town. Cape Town has nearly 5 million people and notoriously bad traffic. We didn’t think we could get to our destination north of Cape Town in one day, so we were going to stage at a campground out of Stellenbosch for one night then move on the next day. The N2 got busier and busier as we got closer to Cape Town. It was dense traffic through Stellenbosch, Friday evening . We arrived at the Swiss Social & Sports Club later in the afternoon about 10km west of Stellenbosch. It was a surprisingly rural campsite. It had a tested good water supply so we filled up about 60 litres of water for later on. It was a quiet nights camping.
Swiss Social & Sports ClubCamped at the Swiss Social & Sports Club
Our waterfall hike at Storm River took us until 12 noon to complete, after that it was drive as far as we could towards Cape Town. About 4:30pm we got to Gourits River eco-camp. It was in a valley that you come to after traversing plains. It was a great location, very peaceful. We would have loved to stay a few days but we had to push onto Cape Town.
Gourits River with its extensive sandCamped next to the river
We headed west along the N2 trying to make distance towards Cape Town. We eventually made it in the afternoon to Storm River park. We got a campsite (at the usual expensive SanParks price of $A105). It was a fantastic camp right at the front of the campground right next to the sea breaking over rocks.
We walked about 3km up to the suspension bridge over the Storm River mouth. The next day we walked around 3km over many rocks to the waterfall on the Jerling River. It took as close to 3 hours to walk up and back and we had sore knees after.
Jerling River waterfall hikeLiz hiking to the WaterfallSuspension bridge over the Storm RiverCamped at Storm River next to the ocean
Addo Elephant Park had fairly close campsites (despite thousands of hectares of park). We went for a night drive the night we arrived. It was two hours long, we saw some elephants, an owl (quite close), some kudu, red hartebeest, and some other antelopes. Next morning we went out for a game drive and almost immediately found a group of elephants crossing the road. We watched them along with several commercial game drive vehicles. Two male elephants stood at the back of the camper, but then moved on. The rest of the elephants moved on and we continued on. Then we found a car stopped and we didn’t know why, until they pointed out the dung beetle moving a dung ball across the road. We saw another dung beetle moving a ball. Now we had it pointed out, we saw dung beetles frequently.
We stopped at a waterhole where there was a lone elephant who eventually wandered off. It started to rain and we looped back to the rest camp, passing some more zebras and antelopes. At the rest camp we put up the awning and sheltered inside from the rain.
Next day we had to leave the park, but we decided to head out of the southern gate. Liz drove the 50km across the park to southern gate. We saw another two groups of elephants and a solo male elephant. We then left the park and headed on N2 west.
Male elephant walking pastGive way to Dung BeetlesCape StarlingDung Beetles compared to my footSit down if you like, but watch for lionsDung Beetles ruleCape SparrowAngulate TortoiseDung Beetle rolling its 3cm dung ballElephant Jam
We drove the 17km from Peperboom into Craddock and got fuel. Then 25km out to Mountain Zebra Park. Its a 10km drive from the gate into the rest camp. The campsite is compact, but was OK for us, we put ourselves at the high end. We went for 2.5km up above the campsite. The campsite over three days has never more than half full. The whole facility is in a valley nicely located. We set up camp and headed south along the Kranskop loop. Liz drove, her first time, and along a narrow and sometimes steep road. We saw a few animals, but it was cold and raining. At the bottom of the loop had been a lion sighting, but we didn’t see anything. Later we heard that there were only 3 lions in the park, making the chances of a sighting a bit slim. The next day we tried again – leaving soon after dawn. The weather was better, some overcast, but no rain. At the high point of the Kranskop loop Liz spotted something maybe chasing some jackals. It turned out to be a Cheetah. The Cheetah idled along pretty well ignoring us, until it got off the road and it walked along side us about 5 metres away. It then gradually disappeared. We saw more Zebra and lots of Sprinkbok and Kudu later in the day. We met a couple from George a town on the south coast, who gave us some ideas of places to visit on the way to Cape Town. On day 3 we did another game drive driving out of the camp, but we didn’t see a lot of animals, more Zebra and Springbok.
We left Mountain Zebra park and headed to Craddock where we got more supplies from Superspa, and had lunch at Spur. Then it was around a 200km drive down to Addo Elephant Park where we arrived around 4:30pm.
A Dassie sunning itself on the rocks above the campsiteLooking down to the campsite from up the hill on our walkLiz’s first driveBeware of LionsDriving along a cloudy roadSpingbokSpringbokMountain ZebraCheetahKuduSouthern Weaver bird building a nestAnother weaver bird nest buildingCape BuffaloCape Ground squirrel on alert
We headed into Queenstown and the PicknPay supermarket. A few extra supplies, although the supermarket didn’t have a lot of stock, it was under renovation. Then off to Lawrence de Lange Reserve where for about $A4.50 we got entry to a great reserve. We drove around for a couple of hours and saw Giraffe, and Zebra and lots of antelope and finally the resident Rhino family, two Rhino parents and a (not very small) baby Rhino.
Then it was a 170km drive to Peperboom, which was a nice campsite north of Craddock.
The Rhino family, as least two of themBaby RhinoA “tower” of Giraffesa plains ZebraGame driving
It was a great sunny morning of Caritas Werfbederf. We were going to try for 357km to Suntsani Campsite outside Queenstown in Eastern Cape.
The road got better after a few kilometres with less potholes. At Rouxville we joined the N6 a much better road. At Aliwal North we stopped at Wimpy’s restaurant for lunch. Then we hit the road until we got to Queenstown at around 4pm. We spoke to a couple of South Africans and they suggested we visit Lawrence de Lange Reserve outside Queenstown.
So that night we decided we needed to plan the next few days. We decided we would go to Moutain Zebra Park, and then Addo Elephant Park. Two nights camping at each, total (because they charge more for foreigners) 5,263 Rand (About $A480). We couldn’t book in the first night they were full, so we planned to go to a place called Peperboom nearby.
We arrived and Glen Reenen Rest camp, and got a bit surprised by the cost. Its a Sanpark, so they charge more for foreigners. It was 2,048 Rand for two nights (about$A185). It makes you reluctant to stay in SanParks because they are so expensive.
It was very cold the next day 6C-8C with a biting wind and low cloud. We walked up to Echo Chasm a 2km walk. We are at close to 2,000m altitude, so its surprising how hard a walk up hill is. We walked down to the nearby hotel in the afternoon, which was run down and didn’t look like it had any guests.
Next morning we set off in the cold. First to Clarens 22km away where we went to the local Spar supermarket and got some supplies, and encountered a rare white car guard. We were aiming for a campground 205km away, we thought if we were going well we might make a more distant campsite. We turned onto the R26 and found ourselves on a heavily potholed road. It was slow going dodging the potholes and by the time we got to Caritas Werfbederf at 2pm in the afternoon we decided that the slow going would prevent us getting to our next target. So we turned into the farm that was Caritas Werfbederf and camped on a nice lawn with use of the bathroom in one of the farmhouses. The are had ducks and peacocks and ponys and more wandering through. Finally after several cold days it was sunny and warm.
Echo ChasmEcho ChasmEcho ChasmThe campground at Golden Gate Park, and the low cloudRather than fixing the Potholes put up a pothole warning signPeacocks on the roofPony wandering pastCamped on the lawns at Caritas Werfbederf
It rained a lot overnight at Royal Natal. We woke at 5:30am and started packing up, only to find water inside at the back of the camper. Its probably bad drainage on the roof. We soaked up the water, packed lots of stuff in plastic bags and headed out on a very cold morning. We had 123km to drive as we headed for Sentinel Peak where the track started to Tugela Falls. As we drove it got more and more cloudy, and we started to think it might not be worth doing. We looked at the weather forecast and there seemed a slight chance that the cloud might lift. We eventually got to the enormous town of Phuthaditjhaba that spread over about 25km. It was slow going through town. Then it was uphill. We passed through the gate of the Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge where we paid 180 Rand to get to Sentinel Peak car park. The a few more kms of brick paved road, until we hit a rough 4wd track. It was a rocky slow 3.5km up the track in thick cloud. We made it to Sentinel Peak car park, which was in very thick cloud. Liz decided that we should walk some distance along the trail towards Tugela Falls. We met some people along the way (fit young people), but it was just thick cloud. We got to a lookout point that would have been a fantastic view, if it wasn’t just cloud.
Driving up to Sentinel Peak
We did think of staying and camping in the car park overnight, but it was so cloudy and cold we decided we would head off to Glen Reenen Rest Camp in Golden Gate Highland National Park. So back we headed down the 4WD track and back through Phuthaditjhaba, arriving at Glen Reenen at 5:30pm.
On the track up to Tugela
The lookout that you can see Tugela Falls if it wasn’t cloudySentinel Car ParkParked at Sentinel Peak Car ParkThe track to Tugela Falls
We had a slow packup at Mt Everest. We got going at 9:45am and headed towards Harrismith. We got stopped by Police on the N3 outside Harrismith, but no problems, and he sent us on our way. First stop was Checkers supermarket for supplies. We managed to get everything we wanted for the next few days camping. We then went back down the N3 to the Engen and filled up with diesel (about$A3 a litre). Then we drove around for 5 minutes looking for a park so we could get lunch at Rocky Mountain Spur.
After lunch on our way to Royal Natal, about 75km. We ended up stopped at roadworks where we were told the road was closed . We turned back to a detour about 5km back, and took a narrow road that eventually rejoined the main road. We went through the gate of Royal Natal where they told us we should be able to get a campsite. Then the visitor centre were we paid 1,140 rand (about $A100) for three nights of unpowered camping in Mahai campsite. When we got to Mahai it was packed, It was Heritage Day long weekend, plus the start of the school holidays. Liz found us a good spot high up at the end of the campsite. It was a ledge, and with a bit of maneuvering we got ourselves set up with good views of the Drakensburgs.
We went for a walk up the Mahai river to the Cascades. Lots of people and kids splashing around in the river.
Camped at Mahai campgroundCamped with views of the DrakensburgsBridge over the Mahai on the way to the Cascades
The next day we decided to do the walk to Tiger Falls, which was a 250m climb up above the campsite. It was well marked, and when we got to the falls we met a couple from Perth WA including their three kids. It was a well made path heading down but tough on the knees.
Walking up towards Tiger FallsTiger FallsMahai campground from the walk to Tiger Falls
The next day was also pretty nice weather wise. Most of the campers left on Sunday, heading back to Joberg or Durban. We decided to walk up to Sunday Falls, about 2.5km. It was a steady walk up, not as steep as the walk to Tiger Falls. We crossed a creek along the way. When we got to Sunday Falls, we took off our shoes and waded across to the other side and then took a 200m walk down to the base of the falls. We decided Sunday Falls was far superior to Tiger Falls, with a lot more water flowing over it.
Approaching the top of Sunday FallsSunday Falls (on Sunday…)Wading back over the top of Sunday Fallson the walk back from Sunday Falls a Giant Wild Anemone
A troop of Baboons visited, here is one sitting close waiting for us to make a mistakeBaboons and babies around camp
